'THE' TITANIC Scale Model Tip Page - pg.2

First, I'd like to give a BIG thank you to everyone who has posted on my message board. Thats where all of these great tips have come from(word for word). Please keep in mind that these are tips only, please follow them with caution. I'd hate to see someone mess up their great model.

I have tried to seperate all tips into catagories. Choose the catagory that you need help in here...

These postings are seperated, but are not put in any order of date.

Strings(arials)

Aerials

Deck Chairs, People, ect.

Arials -

Q: Posted by Andrew on April 21, 1998 (Original message)
Which is the best way to represent the wireless antennae. Is it string, wire, or something else. If it is string what thickness should it be? The stuff given in the kit looks to be too thick, espescially as it is also meant to represent 4 inch cable stays for the funells.

TIP 1: Posted by Jesse on April 21, 1998 (Original message)
Get some speaker wire. Cut away the jacket. Remove the copper strands and roll them out straight. Make precision bends at the fore and aft connection points. I'm still gathering info on materials, so don't take my advice as gospel. But it seems that in order to match different items in this model to scale, one has to be a bit of scavenger. I think the best way to color the copper is with ink. It won't build up as much as paint and sometimes has an oily, metallic sheen. The antennae and rigging are going to be real tricky with this model but experiment with several products away from the rest of the project to determine what looks best.

Q: The best way to doing funnel rigging

TIP 1: Posted by Alex Arnakis on April 28, 1998 (Original message)
This method involves disregarding part of the kit instructions. I think it is a better way.
Beginning with Step 9 of the instructions, DO NOT build the superstructure as a subassembly. Instead, build the Promenade and Boat Decks directly on the hull, leaving the side window pieces off for the time being. DO NOT attach the funnel stay threads to the Boat Deck as shown in the instructions. Build all the deck houses on the Boat Deck, except do not permanently attach the roof of the Officers' Quarters just yet. Attach all the funnels as per the plans. Don't put the funnel caps in place yet.
Now, begin threading the funnel stays. To make this job easier, I recommend stiffening the first 3/4" or so of the thread using gel Superglue to make a kind of "self-needle". First, take about a 6" length of thread, tie a large knot in one end, and pass the other end upwards through one of the holes in the Officers' Quarters roof that are just forward of the locations for the collapsible lifeboats. Thread the end through the SECOND hole from the front in the first funnel. Push the thread straight through the funnel (through the second hole from the front on the other side) and down through the corresponding hole in the other side of the Officers' Quarters roof. You may need to use long tweezers through the top of the funnel to guide the thread through the funnel. Pull the thread tight and glue to the underside of the Officers' Quarters roof. You can now cement the Officers' Quarters roof in place.

Next, take a spool of thread. Using tweezers, pull the end of the thread upwards through one of the holes in the Boat Deck that are just behind the bridge wings. Thread this through the FIRST hole in the first funnel and straight through the other side of the funnel. Then thread down through the corresponding hole in the other side of the Boat Deck. Run the thread along the underside of the Boat Deck to the next hole on that side (the one just aft of the collapsible lifeboat) and up through that hole. Thread through the THIRD hole in the funnel and down to the other side of the Boat Deck. Continue this way, using one continuous length of thread, until you have rigged all the holes in all the funnels.

Cut off the thread from the spool and tie a large knot in the loose end. Pull all the stays tight, working from the front of the ship towards the rear. Pull the excess thread through the last hole in the Boat Deck and secure it by gluing to the underside of the Boat Deck. You can now attach the funnel caps and side window pieces.

TIP 2: Posted by Richard Tonti on April 05 (Original message)
As I am in the process of pulling the lines through their eyes or holes I maintain hand tension (taking out the slack) and hit the entire length of the line with a light coat of clear lacquer just enough to stiffen it and this helps it to retain it's integrety. It also, in a manner of speaking, foul weather proofs the delicate fibers from the elements thus preserving them as well. If you have no lacquer you can use many things even Elmer's glue all dilluted in a little water which you can brush on. This has always worked well for me

TIP 3: Posted by Debbie Stressner on April 07 (Original message)
I used very thin floral wire, painted black, for everything but the aerial wires. I used the black string there. I wanted some sag there anyhow. Also, use the string on the lifeboats and the cranes, if you wish.

Just give the wire a bit of a hook at both ends where you install it in the funnel and the deck. Other areas, just superglue into place the straight wire cut to size. The floral wire never sags and always looks great!

TIP 4: e-mailed from Tom M.

The instructions state at the prow to cut two 8'' inch pieces of thread, Try this; drill the top of the prow with a thread size micro drill near the top and being carefull not to split out the front or back side, now cut one 16'' inch piece and thread through hole pulling it even then glue in place as before

Gold Medal -

Q: Posted by Jeff S. on April 08 (Original message)
Does anybody know how much the etched railings and other detail stuff might cost?

TIP 1: Posted by Alex Lee on April 08, 1998(Original message)
The price depends on the scale you require. The set for 1/350 scale cost US$36. Check out Gold Medal Models home page for more information. http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/onetrack/GoldMM.htm
TIP 2: You can find great pics of these sets on the Gold Medal page of this site. Click here to go there.

Q: Posted by Andrew on April 04, 1998 (Original message)
could anyone tell me the best way to imitate glass for the portholes and windows?, would it be clearfic, acetate, or something else?

TIP 1: Posted by Richard Tonti on April 04, 1998 (Original message)
As far as simulated windows-porthole glass goes you might try using MICROSCALE KRYSTAL KLEAR. This comes in a small white bottle-is under $2- and very easy to use.
TIP 2: Posted by N. West on April 04, 1998 (Original message)
I read somewhere that regular plastic document protector sheets work well.
TIP 3: Posted by stuart on March 21, 1998 (Original message)
try clearfix on promonade deck windows first.not perfect, but a lot better than nothing
TIP 4: Posted by Alex Lee on March 16, 1998(Original message)
For windows on your model, Roy Mengot has the following advice :
"Use clear acetate cut from document protectors and cement these to the backside of all windows (after painting). When the light hits it just right, you can see the glint off the glass and it gives the model some life."
TIP 5:
Check Roy Mengots wreck page for details on this

Q: Posted by stuart on March 22, 1998 (Original message)
anyone know of a good place to get the etch brass sets of people, deck chairs railings etc in the uk?

TIP 1: Posted by Clint on March 31, 1998(Original message)
I have recently bought a Titanic kit myself and also bought an etched brass set of figures, railings, ladders, stairways etc.. I got these in the UK from White Ensign Models. Their Internet address is http://whiteensignmodels.simplenet.com/liners.htm.
TIP 2: Posted by Duane Fowler on April 02, 1998(Original message)
You can also try Gold Metal Models at http://navismagazine.com/gmm/gmm.htm There is the Merchant set for the Titanic and Lucitania which includes railings, rat lines, and other details, and there is the Gold Merchant set which incliudes the deck chairs, antenna spreaders, and other items.
TIP 3: e-mailed from Tom M.
watch where you place your benches! or you might just block a door like I did on the port side boat deck just aft of funnel #1 ooopps!
TIP 4: e-mailed from Tom M.
on the first class roof port side by funnel #2 either the bench is in the wrong place or steps are wrong, since i have got the gmm detail set i'm going to relocate the steps to miss the bench, and probibly have to modify railing to match steps. I'll let you know when I finish this step

Just remember where all of these great tips came from... You. THANKS!