Micro Kristal Klear

Ever think about super-detailing your Titanic model? Well, if you going to, your probably going to want glass in your portholes and windows. Of course you can't really put pieces of glass into your model. Too tedious, and you would probably get hurt. So whats the next best solution you ask? "Micro Krystal Klear"! This product comes in the form of a white liqued(kind of like white Elmers Glue). Once applied to the porthole or window, it will dry crystal clear, and shine like a new window. I just bought this stuff, and i can tell you that its the best thing you can get for the window effect. Below, you will find an article written by Don Morlan on how to best apply this material to your model...

I have been applying the crystal clear (which is a lot like Elmer's glue that dries very clear and can be removed even after it dries if need be) to the hull over the last few days and can offer this advice from my experience:

First, make sure that your portholes are absolutely clear and free of all that black, plastic flash (or excess black hull plastic) left over from drilling out your portholes.

Second, make sure that the gold rims in your portholes have received sufficient paing coverage. Do they look perfect?

Third, as you are dabbing the "glassglue" (my new name for Crystal Clear) in the portholes, if you put too much in the portholes, you can lightly touch a finger to the porthole and the excess will be easily removed. Fourth, the portholes look best when totally filled with the plastic. I noticed that after the initial application and drying of the first run of Crystal Clear, that some of the portholes had a lot of the "glassglue" in them, other portholes appeared to have not nearly as much. This uneven look is very sloppy looking and can be remedied by going over the hull again and "topping off" the portholes with the glue.

I did this final "topping off" last night and the portholes look much better. The portholes have a uniform facing to them and they reflect light beautifully. Also, with each porthole full of glassglue, the gold rims of the porthole combine with the lowermost edge of the glass to give a little shine, almost a sparkle to each of the portholes. This little shine doesn't appear unless the porthole is full of the glassglue!

As far as putting the glassglue in the full size windows or even the Ismay "promenade deck suite", I use a thinner coat. The glassglue isn't as clear as they say it is. I have no qualms about filling the portholes up, since they are so small to begin with, but with the larger windows, they get a little cloudy with a thick coat. Have fun and always experiment on your own too!

This was all worth the (enjoyable) effort. I had fun watching the NBA finals and applying the glassglue during the commercials. Highly recommended! (Original article)

Heres a few more articles written on MKK...

Glass Portholes -

Q: Posted by Andrew on April 04, 1998 (Original message)
could anyone tell me the best way to imitate glass for the portholes and windows?, would it be clearfic, acetate, or something else?

TIP 1: Posted by Richard Tonti on April 04, 1998 (Original message)
As far as simulated windows-porthole glass goes you might try using MICROSCALE KRYSTAL KLEAR. This comes in a small white bottle-is under $2- and very easy to use.
TIP 3: Posted by stuart on March 21, 1998 (Original message)
try clearfix on promonade deck windows first.not perfect, but a lot better than nothing

as more info becomes available, I will post it here.

If your wondering where to find this "glassglue", just go to your local hobby store and ask for it. It only cost about $2 and will add about one million dollors to your model. I can't wait until I finish my model with it. If I can get some good photos of it while in the model, I will post them here.