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Model News and Hints As I write this during the frenzy of the Christmas shopping period, a principal High Street store here in Cork, Ireland, has abandoned stocking model kits. One wonders whether the computer age is hitting the kit market! I hope not and that kids of all ages will continue to be offered other creative alternatives to the computer keyboard. Anyway, to the good news! The old REVELL Oriana (1:495) will be re-released by MODELCRAFT early in 2000 and the much-requested AIRFIX Queen Elizabeth (1:600) is due to be reappear this summer. The latter will provide an interesting comparison with their QE2 and the MODELCRAFT Queen Mary (1:568). Other than that, there is not too much happening on the new civilian ship front. GLENCOE are mentioning the Norway on their website but this has been rather a long time coming. Caroline Carter of White Ensign Models indicates that their resin kit of the Cunard RMS Aquitania (1:600) may be available in the not-too-distant future. This will be a limited run and interested parties should contact Caroline at the address below. An appropriate photo-etch set will be included. Resin kits require a different mindset in construction to the injection moulded types. They are also more expensive to purchase but small runs of unusual subjects are possible. The Aquitania should be unique and interesting but be prepared for a price tag of about £120(!!). |
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| I have intimated in various articles that spray painting ships'
hulls is almost mandatory for a good finish. At the moment I am lamenting the demise of my
airbrush compressor. This was about 12 years old, so it owed me nothing!
Incidentally, it’s unusual for the simple rotary types to last this long and the best
bet for the serious airbrush enthusiast is to invest in a quality design with a reservoir
tank. For the occasional modeller, spray painting with enamels such as
"Plasti-kote" is a useful alternative and their matt black is suitable for hulls
etc, particularly for larger models. The technique here is to brush paint a comparable
colour first as an undercoat (eg Humbrol #33, for black), and then just use a light
spraying to complete the finish when dry. Prolonged spraying should not be used as
the paint may "run" and the propellant pressure will decrease due to adiabatic
expansion. This "top coat" spray technique is economical with the
relatively expensive spray paint so that a set of 100ml cans in different colours should
suffice for several models. Cellulose acetate - based car paint should be avoided as this
tends to craze plastic - although they can be used with practice and experience. All spray
cans should be shaken vigorously before use and used at room temperature (condition in a
bowl of water at 21deg if necessary). Spray out of doors, or at least through an open
outside door! The nozzle should be wiped clean after each use. The use of spray paint almost inevitably involves masking those areas which are to be protected. Household masking tape is not suitable for detail masking (eg demarkation lines) on models and one of the modelling types (eg Tamiya or the graphic artists' Letraline) are preferred. However, if you are tempted to use common masking tape, cut a fresh edge with a modelling knife and steel rule to act as your line mask. Whatever your material, use a width suitable to the complexity of the masking - compound curves require a smaller width for proper adaptation. When satisfactorily positioned, the tape may be burnished onto the surface with a wooden cocktail stick before spraying. If you find that paint creeps under the mask in some areas, allow to dry and remove by gentle scraping with a sharp modelling knife. Incidentally, dampened tissue paper is a very useful and speedy general masking material as it can be adapted to protect large areas and is paint-repellant. Liquid masking materials are best left to watercolour artists! A change of subject to waterslide decalling - a useful material, particularly for old decals, is a softening solution such as Microset (Microscale). This is a solution of acetic acid which is pre-brushed on to the surface and also on to the decal when in place. After a minute, or two, the solution softens the varnish carrier a little and helps it adapt to an uneven surface. The paint finish is not affected and the material is highly recommended. For those of you contemplating do-it-yourself decals with a computer graphics program, you might like to investigate SuperCal inkjet decal paper (Micro Format). This is claimed to give satisfactory results with a standard colour inkjet printer! Contact details below. Until next time - good modelling! Noel Ray |
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