Print out the following and keep it as a reference. To make assembly easier, you'll need a few tools to assist you. Many of you already have them, but if you don't, here's a list: 1. An X-acto "Extra Hands" clamping tool. This is made up of a cast metal base about two inches square holding two double-ball-jointed "alligator clips" mounted on opposite ends of a movable metal arm about five inches long. It's available at better hobby shops as well as mail order tool companies like Micro-Mark (see their ads in Fine Scale Modeler and other good hobby magazines.) 2. Two (2) cross-action tweezers with pointed tips. Cross- action tweezers act opposite to normal tweezers: the handles must be squeezed to open them. These are also available from the same sources listed above. You'll be using these tweezers as tiny clamps. 3. Pacer's "Zap-CA" glue or equivalent. This is a very thin and watery brand of "superglue". 4. Micro-Dropper CA-glue nozzles. These are made by Alteco USA, Inc., 23510 Telo Avenue, Unit 8, Torrance, CA 90505, telephone (310) 539-7680. These nozzles have a very thin end with an opening about .010" in diameter. They come six to a poly bag for under a dollar and last a long time. When the tip clogs eventually, simply snip off a fraction and carry on anew. 5. X-acto's Number 11 knife blades and a handle. 6. One pair of regular tweezers with precision pointed tips. 7. One pair of precision miniature flat-nosed pliers. 8. An airbrush and source of compressed air. 9. A finely-tipped artist's paintbrush. 10. Black and brown modeler's paints and thinner. You may not need all these tools. Some of you can probably get by without a few on this list. But together, they will make assembly much easier. STEP ONE: Cut all the bench parts from the sheet of brass they came on. Separate the upper halves into one pile and the lower halves into another. Keep them in lids from small food containers or something similar to prevent loss. For the newer bench sets with the Third Leg, (on GMM upgraded Set No. 350-15) keep these in their own separate container lid. STEP TWO: Using the flat-nosed pliers, carefully bend the arms forward 90 degrees on all the upper halves. Keep them in the lid for safety. STEP THREE: Now bend the legs down 90 degrees on the lower halves. Put them back in their lid. STEP FOUR: Insert a pre-shaped upper half into a pair of cross-action tweezers, holding the part in the middle. Now using your ZAP-CA glue and Alteco nozzle (or the tip of a pin if you don't have the nozzles), apply a small amount of glue to the bends in the arms. Fill the gap between the arms and the back with glue. Set the part aside to dry and repeat for all the remaining upper halves. STEP FIVE: Insert a pre-shaped lower half into a pair of cross-action tweezers, holding the part in the middle. Apply glue as in Step Four to the bends in the legs. Set these parts aside to dry. (These steps will strengthen the legs and arms considerably and make accidental bends and/or breakage less likely.) STEP SIX: Secure both pairs of cross action tweezers in the alligator clips of the X-acto Extra Hands tool. Adjust the alligator clips until the pointed ends of the tweezers face each other at about a ninety degree angle and are about an inch apart. STEP SEVEN: Secure a lower half in the jaws of one cross-action tweezers, holding the lower half by the front center of the seat bottom. STEP EIGHT: Secure an upper half in the jaws of the other cross-action tweezers, holding the upper half by the top center of the seat back. STEP NINE: Adjust the alligator clips and tweezers until the upper half meets the lower half along the rear corner of the seat. Align both halves until straight. STEP TEN: Using your ZAP-CA and Alteco Micro-Dropper nozzle, run a thin bead of glue along the joint between the upper and lower halves. Avoid clogging the slats with too much glue. Do not apply glue to the arms where they meet the seat bottom - it isn't necessary and may clog the arms with glue. STEP ELEVEN: For the newer benches having the Third Leg, remove the bench from the tweezers and fasten the top center of the seat back into one of the cross-action tweezers. The bench should be held inverted. STEP TWELVE: Apply a droplet of glue to the center brace on the underside of the seat bottom. Now using tweezers, pick up a Third Leg by its bottom and line it up with the seat bottom, carefully pressing it into the glue droplet. Make sure the leg is facing the same way as the end legs. (NOTE: You can also use the slower-drying ZAP-A-GAP (also by Pacer) or an equivalent gap-filling superglue for this step. It's slower drying and will give you more time to adjust the leg properly.) Assembly of the bench is now finished. Repeat these steps until all the benches are assembled. TO PAINT: This requires an airbrush. Sorry, but the small size and fine wrought-iron detailing demands it. If you don't have one, you can hand-brush the paint, but it has to be very thin to prevent clogging. And you'll probably miss some spots - shine a flashlight on the benches to locate missed spots. They'll reflect the light brightly back at you. STEP ONE: Fasten a piece of masking tape, about two feet long, to a long platform made up of a piece of cardboard or plywood, sticky adhesive side facing up. STEP TWO: Gently press the benches onto the tape in an orderly line. The benches are to be placed with their legs up (inverted) and lined up front to back in a long row. Press each one down firmly enough so the air blast from the airbrush won't blow them free. You can press them down at an angle so the backs and the arms are touching the tape - this hold them more securely. STEP THREE: Mix up a thin batch of black paint and airbrush all the benches black. Take care not to apply too much paint that can clog the fine detail. Repeat until all the benches are painted. I prefer Floquil brand model railroad paints, available at virtually all model railroad hobby shops. Allow the benches to dry thoroughly, at least 24 hours or more. STEP FOUR: Remove the benches from the tape. Discard the tape and replace it with another strip, adhesive side up, in the same manner as before. STEP FIVE: Press the benches onto the tape in an orderly row, this time end to end, with the front of the benches facing you as close to the edge of the cardboard (or plywood) platform as possible. STEP SIX: Mix up a thin batch of brown paint (I used Floquil Rail Brown.) Using the artists's paintbrush, carefully apply the brown paint to the front and back of the seat back, and the top and bottom of the seat bottom. (The underside doesn't have to be painted if you really don't want to - it won't show on the completed model.) Repeat until all the benches are painted. Allow to dry before handling. Now glue them all to the model's decks. YOU'RE FINISHED!